The fight over meat-free meat pits Europe’s traditionalists against foodie innovators

Would A steak au poivre by any other name taste as juicy? What if it featured only imitation “meat”, cleverly recombined vegetable protein disguised as beef? To traditionalists in France—starting with farmers who rear the soon-to-be steaks—the answer is a resounding non. A decree passed in February and due to come into force on May 26th spells out that all meaty terms, whether it be an entrecôte, a jambon or even a saucisse, are to be reserved for cuts of dead animals and nothing else. Those who fret that Europe may be consumed by war and economic torpor will be heartened to see its leaders can still find the time to keep dastardly vegan burgers off the menu. But not everyone is happy. A budding industry of startups increasingly able to produce cutting-edge faux flesh in Petri dishes is wondering whether this is yet another case of Europe regulating first, thus innovating never. Can Charlemagne chew his way through this meaty debate?